Static assembly instructions (WIP!!!)

Here you can find the instructions for the 0xCB Static! For the best experience please make sure to view them on a big monitor or a laptop and not on your mobile device!

You can use the Table of Content for easy navigation. Just click on the different sections and it will take you there!

Also please read the whole assembly instruction once before building and once during the build to make sure you do everything right!

If you have any problems during assembly don't hesitate to shoot us an e-mail or just ask over at our discord.

Packing List

These parts should all be included in you Static Kit!

Switch Plate1
Bottom PLate1
Plexi Cover1
3D-Printed Feet1 Left
1 Right
Rubber Feet6
Small Standoffs (M2x8mm)4
Big Standoffs (M2x14mm)4
Screws (M2x5mm)16
OLED Screen

The OLED Screen is sealed in an antistatic bag upon arrival. This ensures, that they are fully functioning when you get them!
EC11 Rotary EncoderMX121
Aluminium Rotary Encoder Knob1
USB-C PortJ11
RESET and BOOT ButtonsSW1, SW22
ATMEGA328p ProcessorU11


Small Diodes


We will include a few extras of those to ensure you have enough!
Large Diodes

D49, D502

R3, R42


R1, R22


C3, C42

C1, C22
Diode Bender

Use this Diode bender to perfectly bend the diodes to fit in our PCB. You will get the nicest looking bends this way!
Allen Key

This allen key fits the M2 Hex Screws that are needed for assembly!

Required Supplies

You will need these supplies to build your own Static!

Flush Cutters You will need these to clip off the legs of the through hole components.
Soldering Iron We recomment a good soldering iron especially for soldering the USB port!
SolderPlease use high quality solder (flux core or apply flux externally) to make your life easier when soldering this kit!

Optional Supplies

These Supplies are not needed to build the Static, but they definitely help!

extra flux / flux penExtra Flux can be helpfull when soldering. Especially for the USB Port! Flux makes the solder flow better into the cavities and generally helpes get a good solder joint.
isopropyl alcohol / PCB cleanerIPA or PCB Cleaner is super cool to make the PCB look good after you are done soldering.
Brass spongeWith a brass sponge you can clean the tip of the soldering iron. A brass sponge is a small investement but surely a good one! It makes soldering that much easier when you can work with a clean soldering iron tip!


In this section we will show you how to do the required soldering for your new Static, please take the time to read these instructions fully at least once before actually starting. If this is your first time soldering a keyboard kit, congratulations on taking the plunge!
This all may seem overwhelming at first but we promise that if you stay calm and work mindfully, you'll be posting your new Static's sound test in no time at all!

We wanted this process to be as easy to understand as possible, and as such have provided you with a super handy interactive bill of materials that also doubles as a 'map' of your PCB. If you click through to it here, you will see that on the left you have a BOM that matches your packing list as well as a model of the Static's PCB on the right.
If you examine the list closely each item has a reference column value that consists of a two character letter/number code (eg. J1, R1, R2, etc.), you can think of these as each component's 'address' on the map. If you look at your physical PCB right now you'll see that these codes are also printed on the board directly, this is especially helpful in figuring out what needs to go where.
Our interactive BOM goes a step further though, if you simply mouse over any component on the list it's intended location is highlighted in red on the model for your convenience. Please make liberal use of this feature and always double-check before ever touching iron to board, having to desolder something because you were in a rush is no fun at all!

Please take a few minutes now to familiarize yourself with each part and it's location, some of them are quite small. Some of them will obviously only fit into their footprint on the PCB in a single orientation, while others may have a less obvious specific one. If the latter is the case it will be marked on both the component and PCB, usually by matching up a line or notch on one side of each.
For example please mouse over line item #6 (U1) now, which is your ATmega328-P. You will see that there is a notch on the right side of both the part itself, it's outline on the BOM, and finally on the PCB itself. Be very sure to match this orientation or your board will not function properly, or at all!

We have provided pictures of each component in your kit in the packing list, by referencing this in combination with our interactive BOM we trust that you'll be able to figure out where everything goes. If for any reason you're unsure of or just want to double-check any part of the build process, please come ask in #buildassistance over at our Discord before proceeding.
It's always harder to undo something than it is to wait for an answer clarifying it, and we promise to be prompt with our replies. We are always happy to answer any questions you may have, and we think you'll find our community very helpful as well. Please remember that the only stupid question is the one you didn't ask!

Next we'll be going into some techniques and tips for soldering specific components, again please read through these in their entirety before starting to solder.
These include:
- how to solder basic through hole components here
- how to solder the USB-C port here
- how to solder the OLED screen here
- how to solder the EC11 encoder here

Soldering basic through hole components

For most through hole components you have to bend the legs first! When soldering the small diodes you can use our diode bender, to get clean bends, but for the rest just look at the distance the holes on the pcb are apart and bend the components accordingly by hand.
This of course doesn't apply to all of the parts. Just take a good look at each part and see if you can fit it in without bending the legs. If so, just put them in there! If not, go ahead and bend the legs accordingly.

Then you can just go ahead and place the component at the right spot on the PCB.

Now flip the PCB over. It is important to note that ALL soldering will take place on the bottom of the PCB! Now bend the legs of the component to hold it in place so you can solder it easily.

Now add a bit of solder to each solder joint of the component! If you think you added too little just add a little more. Through Hole components are really forgiving with solder. Just make sure no two solder joints are touching!

When you are happy with your solder joints, go ahead and clip the legs off with your flush cutters.

You are now done with your first soldered through hole component. Great job! You can repeat those steps for all basic components on this board like the resistors, capacitors and diodes!

Soldering the USB-C Port

Soldering the USB Port is always the most challenging part of any build! We recommend starting with it, because it is easiest when no other component is in the PCB.

Start by placing the USB Port in the PCB on the side, that has all the printing for the components on it. It should go in super easy. If you need to use any kind of force you are doing it wrong! Just let it slide in there.

Now flip the board around and take a good look at the USB Port. Does it sit good in there? Are all pins looking good? You can see if the port wiggles a bit. That usually means that it sits good in there!

Now you can add solder to one of the big pins of the USB port. Please be patient and really only do one! ;) Just hold the soldering iron on the pin for a while and then slowly add solder. If all goes well it should flow into the hole around the pin and you should be able to see a bit of solder on the other side.

Now look at the top of the USB port if it sits straight in there. If it is not straight (Like on the pic to the right) you can go ahead and put the soldering iron on the joint and heat it up again. Now grab a pair of tweezers and position the USB port so that it sits straight. Don't touch it with your hands! The whole housing will get hot!

After that you can go ahead and solder the other three big pins of the USB port. Those should go the same as the first one. Just let your soldering iron rest on the joint a bit, add solder to it and let it flow into the holes around the pins.

If you have extra flux add that to the little pins of the USB port now! Also go ahead and add a little bit of solder to your soldering iron now. You will use it in the next step.

Take your soldering iron and rub it over the little pins. The solder should flow nicely into the cavities.

If you didn't add enough just go over the pins again with a bit of new solder. But be careful! Here it is crucial to not add a lot of solder! So be careful when soldering.

Here is a close up of an USB port. It should look like this. No pin is touching another one. If there are pins toughing each other go over there again with the soldering iron and kind of wipe the solder off of there. Before that it's also great if you have a brass sponge to clean your tip of the soldering iron!

And that's it! You soldered your (maybe first) USB Port! Godd job! You are now good to go to solder all the other components in there!

Soldering the OLED

Soldering an OLED Screen is not hard in a soldering kind of way, but it is challenging to get it to sit straight and look good!

Start by just placing the OLED in there. It should face away from the diodes and to the rotary encoder.

Now you can place the diode bender under the OLED. This ensures the right distance between the PCB and the OLED.

Now flip over the PCB and solder one pin of the OLED. Preferably one of the outer ones.

You can now look if the OLED sits straight. If it does great job! That's awesome. If not you can just bend it a bit in place. Be careful with that tho! The OLED is a very fragile part. Be sure to grab it only by the PCB (the blue part) and not on the display itself or the ribbon cable on the right.

If you are satisfied with the result you can go ahead and solder the other three pins of the OLED.

You now have a great looking OLED in your Static! If you want you can peel off the little protective film now! You can also wait till you are all done with your Static of course.

Soldering the Encoder (EC11)

Soldering an Encoder is just as easy as soldering your switches!

The Encoder has two big pins on it. Those are just for holding the encoder in there. They also act as ground pins.

The Encoder also has two small pins on one side and three on the other. This is great, because it means you cannot put the encoder into the PCB the wrong way around!

So go ahead and do that now. The two big pins should hold it in there good. If some pins are bend during shipping it's really not a problem. Just bend them back carefully so that they look straight again!

You can now go ahead and solder the big pins forst and then the 5 small pins. The big pins take quite a bit of solder, so just keep feeding solder in there until you see a nice coverage of solder.

Interactive BOM / human PnP

Open in new Tab

Assembling the keyboard

Here we will go over all the steps you need to follow after you have soldered the PCB!

Start by placing the rubber feet in the little cutouts in the 3D-Printed Feet.

Now go ahead and put screws in the holes through the feet. They might need a bit of force to get in there, just push them in with the allen key. We wanted it that way!

You can place the feets below the bottom plate.

Make sure the bottom plate is the right way around for that! You should be able to read the CB!

The Cutout for the feet and the bottom plate should align.

After that you can screw the standoffs in there. The small ones go to the front while the longer ones go in the back.